The Shugyo Project

The Shugyō Project: The Matterhorn. 5 Months to Go.

After a family skiing holiday in Chamonix, I finally got round to ticking off the Arête des Cosmiques. It only took a small battle with the weather, my immune system, and any remaining common sense.

It all starts with the cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi, one of the most famous viewpoints in the Alps and an excellent place to question your life choices before you’ve even started.

Tuesday was a write-off. The guiding company offered to reschedule or refund. A very reasonable suggestion. I ignored it.

Wednesday we went up briefly, but at -35°C even bad decisions have limits. The mountain politely declined our attempt.

Thursday though, we finally got our window.

The first lift takes you from coffee shops and tourists straight into full alpine seriousness. No warm-up, no easing in, just straight to what am I doing here?

Stepping out onto the narrow snow arête is where it all becomes very real. Not technically difficult, just mentally engaging. A gentle reminder that slipping would be inconvenient.

From there, the route flows nicely: snow ridges, short rock steps, and steady progress with ridiculous views across Mont Blanc, Mont Maudit, and the Grandes Jorasses.

Midway, there is a short rappel, then the ridge sharpens into the classic knife edge before leading into the final section.

The last bit was where things got interesting.

A north face traverse on soft snow with a fairly significant drop below, followed by a belayed pitch up an icy gully. I waited about five minutes for the rope to be set, which, in that position, felt closer to a small lifetime.

Once the rope came tight, it was a relief just to move. The pitch itself was only about 20 metres, but it felt far harder than it had any right to. Breathing was a struggle, handholds were questionable, footholds even more so. One of those sections where everything feels just slightly against you.

At the top, a short ridge and a ladder took me straight back onto the viewing platform of the Aiguille du Midi.

Within seconds, you are back among tourists.

One American tourist immediately asked if she could use her photos and videos of me online. At that point I was mainly focused on staying upright. “Yeah, go for it,” felt like the correct level of engagement.

Now for the honest bit.

I slept badly all week and picked up a cold, which is not ideal at altitude. Breathing was harder, reactions were slower, and everything just took more effort than it should have.

The route itself is not extreme, but it demands attention throughout. Narrow sections, mixed terrain, and just enough technical climbing to keep you honest, especially when tired.

There was a lot of snow on the ridge. Helpful in places, slightly concerning in others. Snow has a habit of being reassuring right up until it is not.

The exposure did not bother me too much. The altitude definitely did. That is something I will need to sort before heading onto the Hörnli Ridge.

What I took away from it:

• Confidence boost
• Head for heights still working
• Boots did their job
• Scrambling might actually be improving

The guide was excellent and, importantly, far calmer than me.

More than anything, I am glad I stuck with it through the cancellations. It would have been easy to bail. Much harder to hang around, wait for a window, and commit when it finally comes.

Fitness and Training Update

This week has been simple: skiing every day and one proper alpine day thrown in.

No structure, no plan, just tired legs and a decent hit of altitude and exposure.

The focus now is consistency. Less drama, ideally.

The Arête des Cosmiques was a solid checkpoint. Not easy, but it has made the next step feel slightly less unrealistic.

Why I am Doing This

This is still minor compared to what Aspire supports people through every day: spinal cord injuries, rebuilding independence, and access to housing and equipment.

If you can support, it genuinely makes a difference.