The Shugyo Project

What can I say — it’s been a busy block.

One road ride (30km), thirteen strength sessions, three swims totalling around 8km, nine runs, and two full days climbing in Wales. A proper stretch of consistent work.

The weight continues to come down, and I’m feeling stronger by the day. There’s a noticeable shift now — things are starting to feel more natural rather than forced, which is always a good sign this far into a build.

The big story from this period, though, is the Wales trip.

This had been booked in advance with Mountain Tracks, the company I’ll be climbing the Matterhorn with. It’s essentially a training weekend, but more importantly an opportunity for the guide to assess both fitness and technical ability.

I took the Friday off, which also happened to be my birthday, and made the drive up from the South Coast. What should have been straightforward turned into a 6.5-hour slog, and by the time I arrived I was more than ready to get parked up for the night.

I stayed in the van at a campsite which, in fairness, was spot on. Quiet, tidy, and with a decent view out towards the mountains. Not a bad place to wake up.

I’d been in touch with my guide and another student beforehand via WhatsApp, and we agreed to meet early the next morning in a lay-by near Tryfan.

After a quick round of introductions and getting boots on while running through the plan for the day, we set off.

The first route on the list was Tryfan Bach Arete, graded “Difficult”. Not long after we started, the weather turned and it began properly chucking it down. That immediately raised the stakes and made everything that followed more committing.

From there we moved onto Bastow Buttress, a Grade 3 scramble, though the variations we took made it feel more involved in places.

Next up was the upper half of the North Ridge of Tryfan, Grade 2, before descending via the South Ridge.

We then tackled Bristly Ridge, which, if I’m honest, started horribly. Loose rock, wet grass, and a scruffy gully that didn’t give much confidence. It improved once we were through it, but it definitely got your attention early on.

All in, it was about 7.5 hours on the hill. By the end of it I was absolutely knackered and completely soaked, a proper British mountaineering experience.

The evening debrief was brief but useful. The guide was happy with how we’d moved on the rock and how we’d handled the conditions. He also flagged that, weather depending, we’d be looking at a VDiff, Very Difficult, climb the following day.

That’s an important marker. Nothing on the Matterhorn will be harder than that technically. Beyond that, it’s about stamina and the mental ability to deal with sustained exposure over a long day.

Day two followed a similar pattern. Another early start, another lay-by, but this time we had a proper weather window.

We had clear views of the surrounding peaks, including Crib Coch, which we were told was too easy for the weekend’s objectives, and watched the train making its way up Snowdon in the distance.

The plan for the day was the Flying Buttress on Clogwyn y Grochan, a classic and well-known British route, sitting alongside Cenotaph Corner, probably the most famous climb in the UK.

Getting to the start was a challenge in itself, a tough 30-minute slog up scree that definitely woke the legs up after the previous day.

There were already climbers on the route, so we had a bit of time to wait. No complaints. It gave us a chance for a brew, a bit of a reset, and to talk through the route.

Once it cleared, our guide, who I should mention is 66, set off. Honestly, mountain goat fit. Properly impressive, and clearly someone who knows his craft inside out.

The climb was split into five pitches, sections broken down for safety and management. Watching where he went on the first pitch, I’ll admit I had a few nerves creeping in. It looked fairly horizontal in places, and I knew I was up next.

The start is always the hardest for me. Once I’m moving, I’m fine, but that first commit takes a bit.

Pitch after pitch, it was a proper mix of techniques. Arêtes, exposed sections, some down climbing, vertical walls, and finishing off with a chimney.

This route is normally climbed in climbing shoes, but I stuck with the kit I’ll be using on the Matterhorn. That definitely made things harder, but it felt like the right call. And in the end, I managed it well and actually really enjoyed it, even with tired legs and knees from the day before.

The debrief at the end was a real positive. The guide didn’t flag any concerns with my ability or approach. The only advice was simple. Get properly acclimatised when I’m out in France and keep the fitness ticking over.